The lemon route. Amalfi, Maiori, Menori, Ravello, Amalfi. Day 9

Another adventure not getting the bus! Our friends Paul and Jude managed to get on but messaged to say the bus was full. We were a stop further on and it sailed past us! Once again we were lucky in getting a lift down to Amalfi with a Canadian lady and a German guy. They had been staying in Naples and were on a day out of town.We got to Amalfi with 15 minutes to spare to get the boat for Maiori. Tickets bought, we joined the queue. Almost as mad as the buses but not quite. Hardly any information and people pushing left right and centre!

We drop off and pick up passengers in Minori then proceed to Maiori.

Minori

Maiori

We were greeted by a Maiori lemon.

Despite the kitsch lemon, Maiori was a lovely, peaceful little town.

Decorated seats

Interesting tree bark

Amusing street art

Scruffy but interesting architecture

More street art.

Before setting off on the lemon pathway we dropped into a supermarket for supplies. The first “proper supermarket ” we have come across. Everywhere else they are small privately owned shops. This is the pasta aisle!

So we begin the lemon pathway.

I thought this looked a bit like a zen garden.

Looking down at Maiori

On our way to Minori

I loved these cute little donkey tiles. There is such an abundance of great ceramics.

And odd mosaics

More churches

And street art.

On to Ravello

A patient mulo.

Interesting door knocker

Looking back …

we see a rainbow

Majestic fir tree as we enter town.

And majestic buildings

Interesting!

Pompei and Vesuvius Day 8.

We shared a hire car with new best friends Jude and Paul, and set off for Pompei. The pictures tell the story.

Street bar

Frescos decorating a house

Here you can see the ruts left in the road by the wagon wheels. The large stones in the middle of the road were for crossing the road in the rain.

Beautiful mosaics at the entrance to the house. The forerunner of the door mat.

There were many street fountains. All had a different head and were used as meeting places.

For instance, “lets meet at the cows head”.

Many houses had the penis symbol in the brickwork.

It was thought to be a good luck sign.

Our guide for the morning was 80 year old Nicolas. He was born in the grounds of Pompei where his father also worked.

After Pompei we took of for mount Vesuvius. Some 17km away, Vesuvius errupted in 79AD, covering Pompeii and the nearby town of Herculaneum with its ash and molten lava.

Mount Vesuvius from Pompei

The views of the Bay of Naples were amazing, and to imagine the molten rock flowing from the mountain as it errupted was very real as we stood atop the red folded, rocky land.

We enjoyed a beer at the cafe which had a great display of local tomatoes for sale.

That evening our local restaurant was hosting a christening party for Gabriele!

What ostentation!

Convento di Cospita. Day 7

We decided on the Convento di Cospita walk today but got off to a bad start. After waiting at the bus stop a while and no bus, it occurred to us that it was Sunday and reduced bus timetable!

What to do? We started to walk and soon got a lift from Conchita.

On arrival we passed by the church where a service was in progress.

As we headed out of town we came across an old grape press which the owner proudly pointed out to us was a Rolex!

Rolex wine press

Once out of the village, guess what? More stairs!

Crocus and cyclamen amongst the ferns

Crocus

More amazing views, and a busy dung beetle!

A happy dung beetle

Then, very bizarrely, a wrecked car, on top of a mountain with no roads! How did it get there?

The path continued it’s rocky way through a fern covered path where we could hardly find our way, then out in the open and more views to the coast.

Well disguised butterfly

Finally the convent came into view. What an out of the way place to build. It must have been amazing in its time. It is thought that Saint Francis of Asissi stayed here.

Blue skies with just a little cloud on the way back.

And then, almost back in town and it started to pour and no waterproofs! I remembered a survival blanket that has been in my rucksack for at least 25 years! We unfolded it and used it to keep the rain off. Very successful too! Here is Tina posing in the little gold number.

Back at the square there was a bus waiting so soon home in the warm

Day of rest. Day 6

We had already decided on today as a rest day, and what good planning.

Before the rain started we went out for breakfast.

Then a look into some of the local shops.

Fresh pasta. We have bought a selection to cook tonight.

Cheese maker. Fresh mozarella.

Cheese board

Bakery

Decor on shop corner

Rainy day

Low cloud and mist

So we are playing banannagram

Walk of the Gods. Day 5

Today is the day for Pathway of the Gods.

More vigin grottoes and political plaques to help us on our way.

Good watering holes for us and the goats.

This looks like a lovely little cafe but we are on the road too early to try it.

More amazing rock formations

A lovely pathway and more great views.

A grave to Luciana and Pasquale, two much loved sheep dogs.

A field full of cairns

Positano comes in to view.

We come across lots of small garden as we reach the top of the village.

Could these be pom pom sunflowers?

Traditional and pom pom?

We have heard about the desent into Positano! 1800 steps. REALLY!

Right at the top, fresh lemon drink to help us on our way.

More virgins

Getting close to the village

Ceramic tables attached to the fence!

Characterful local bar

Ceramics everywhere. A great pot for your cactus.

Local veg shop full of colour.

Beautiful flowers on a palo borracho tree. Drunken s

Lets have a rest!

Positano was crazily busy. Shops everywhere selling ceramics and clothes. Expensive restaurants and small crowded beach. We were happy to get on the boat to take us back to Amalfi.

Coming in to Amalfi

Cathederal Amalfi

Sculptures by Bruno Catalano

Pierre David Triptych

Pierre David Triptych

Pierre David Triptych by Bruno Catalano

Amalfi marina

⁸We sat by the Bruno Catalano sculptures with a view of the marina as we waited for the bus back up the hill.

Bomerano to Marine de Praiano. Day 4

After a night of thunder, lightening and heavy rain we start the day with another change of plan as showers are forecast until midday.

We settle on the Praiano Marine as it is a short downhill walk.

The pathway down is studded with caves, grottoes to saints, and rock formations that make me think of a load of bare bums!

It turns out to be a beautiful pathway with lush vegetation, and more grottos.

Both days we have seen an abundance of butterflies and lizards, but this is the first time I have got close enough for a photo.

Wall lizard

This was our lunch stop, then onwards down, down and down, following the ubiquitous red spots that mark all the trails.

Looking back to see the craggy skyline, and forward to the marina below.

The light is on green, so it is safe to go on the beach. We weren’t planning on getting a sunbed and brolley, and at these prices it’s just as well. There were a few takers though.

The water was warm and really salty. A pictureseque cove, even a fisherman mending his nets.

We had been told that the bus from Sorrento didn’t always stop if it was already loaded, and thats what happened. Desperate measures! We sort of flagged a car down and asked if they could give us a lift! Lovely car full of Israeli holiday makers. They took us on board and dropped us in Amalfi.

Amalfi was crazy. Busy busy,busy. Too many people, but we are here now so lets look around. Amalfi is famous for it’s lemons, though we haven’t seen a lemon tree yet! This guy amused us though.

The cathederal looks impressive.

Statues sheltering from the rain.

But what is this about?

Back in Agerola, a Catholic prossesion.

mart restaurant, another mini fiat and some ants crawling up a wall, or are they Hawaiian ladies dancing?

See you tomorrow.

Monte tre Cali. Day 3

The plan today was to do the “Walk of the Gods” but after I rushed back to get my new Baden Powel style hat that I had left in the room, Tina sat and watched bus loads of folk taking off on that route whilst she enjoyed a coffee.

Quick change of plan. Get up early tomorrow to do the Walk of the Gods route and head for the hills on the Monte tre Cali route today. It was tough going to start with. All up hill for an hour or so on stone pathways and steps. We walked through gardens with tomatoes, aubergines, corn and towering sunflowers.

The route was studded with minature cyclamen, crocus and chicory amongst many other plant, lots of wild thyme and ferns. We made a few friends on the way and looked back at amazing views as we climbed higher, though it was very hazy.

Looking over San Lazarro

As we reached the highest point of our walk, the view into the next valley overlooking Positano was amazing. Sh

t is wonderful being so high up away from civilisation, but we soon had to start heading downhill again.

A clearer picture where you can almost see Capri in the back ground!

Back to civilisation, cute little cars and what looked like a sacrficial table!

Wonderful day but there are going to be some stiff legs and aching bums tomorrow!

Good hair!

Naples and onwards. Day 2.

Good sleep after the fireworks, but I decided to ask for the shuttle to the train station for 10.00 instead of 11.00. I waited outside and wondered if the large lady in small car, already with 3 passengers, was my shuttle taxi. She was sounding her horn loudly as she passed straight by, but she soon re appeared on the other side of the road and signalled me to get in. The other young people in the taxi were from Germany and off to Sorento. As we drove along the driver was typing on her phone, which she soon showed me. “How old are you? ” 67. “Hmm you wear it well” came back the next message. “I am 63”. So now the whole car knows how old I am cos the guy sitting behind was reading the messages! “Wow “he says “your 67”. So she drops us up the road from the station and we trundle on with our suitcases the last 100 meters. I work out the platform we will need for the onward jouney and where we buy the tickets and go get some breakfast. Tina makes good time and I meet her off the bus. We are soon on the train to Castellamarre de Sabia, entertainment laid on.

Another noisy journey. 2 guys got on to entertain us with an accordion and lots of noise.

Castellammare de Sabia was a quiet seaside town with a magnificent band stand and excellent gelateria, patriotic seats and sympathetic to thirsty dogs!

The bus dragged itself up the mountain, sounding his horn as he rounded the hair pin bends.

We arrived in Agreola about 40 minutes later and luckily got off the bus a minutes walk from our accommodation. More messing with key safes and we were in. Lovely clean, tidy, modern apartment. We took off to look for some goodies for breakfast then found a restaurant less than a minute from the apartment. Pizza and risotto a glass of wine and all is well. We have bus tickets for tomorrow and the bakery downstairs opens at 6.30 which will be great when we go get out bread about 8.30. The plan is to do “The walk of the gods”.

Bus timetable. Local shop for breakfast goodies. Pizza oven in our local.

Naples. Day 1

Pavement pizza cafe, trafic noise.

Great flight. All on time. Short walk to find my lift for transfer to Casa Vacanze Carolina. A dirty, scratched car pulls up and loads my suitcase into the back. I get in the front passenger seat of an uncared for, rarely cleaned car. But hey, it delivered me through the thronging, noisy streets of Naples to my Booking.com room also in a thronging, noisy street. Once I had mastered the digital entrance locks, it turned out to be a peaceful room. Very comfy double bed. Massive telly on which I found a classical music programme, the only channel I could almost understand. The tap for the shower fell off in my hand but I lodged it back in place and had a good hot shower in the tiny cubicle.

I ventured out to look for food. A short walk found me at a pizza take away, pavement cafe, with a huge choice of fresh made pizzas. I chose a Napoli and it delivered with all the right ingredients and at 6.50, good value. I had been told you get reasonable priced food in Italy but the drinks can soon put your bill up, but I was a little surprised at an 11 euro bill. That meant 4.50 for one small beer! Seemed alot but I didn’t quite have the confidence to question it and took it as a lesson to ask the drinks price first next time!The street life was hectic. Trafic a constant stream, hooting and screaching along, loads of buzzing scooters ladened with Mum and Dad or older sisters and brothers, with small child sandwiched inbetween. No helmets.

Back to my room and I read for an hour or so then slept for a couple of hours, waking just before midnight. Just as well, as for sure the huge blast of bangs from fireworks would have woken me from any slumber! Wonder what they were about? So starts today. I have a shuttle taxi ordered to take me to the train station. I wonder what salubrious vehicle will come to pick me up! Meanwhile 2 slices of cold pizza till I find a cafe for breakfast.

Alfarnatejo, Alfarnate.

Old animal driving track

Rather garish Christmas decorations in the village square.

San Juan in Alfarnate.

Information in braille.

Fun sign for a garage.

Stepping stones over an almost dry river.

Stepping stones look like sweets making a path across the river.

This water trough is a copy of an old one originally found here and was used by humans and animals alike.

Tying the home down?

Ancient drovers road.

Lichen covered branches of a bush.

Delighted to see my first lambs on the 2nd of January.